- Railmodeller pro create grade to track how to#
- Railmodeller pro create grade to track install#
- Railmodeller pro create grade to track code#
The layout design reflects space contraints and the 30" reach rule of thumb. I want to avoid that pitfall from the start. I bought new nickel silver track even though I have a bunch of the brass track from the 70's. Track can also be cut with a cutoff wheel in a Dremel tool. Then smooth the cut with a file and remove any burrs. When you cut the rail, put the "flat" side of the cutters towards the piece of track you are cutting. They are available from Micro Mark and hobby shops from Xuron and most electronics stores sell them.
I cut rail and flex track with "rail nippers", or flush cutting pliers. Generally I will lay the switches and curves first and then connect them with the rest of the track, trimming the flex track to fit. I lay the track on the cork following the center lines. I lay the roadbed (cork) on the centerlines. I may also make a mark where the throwbar on the switches are for reference, extending the mark out past where the cork will be. Generally what I do is paint the surface with an earth color. It would help to know what type of track you are using and how are you planning to attach the cork and track.įor example, you seem to be mixing sectional and flex track, as opposed to using all flex track.
Railmodeller pro create grade to track install#
I install the bus wires first, before laying any track. I also use lighting buses for structures and street lights. You will have more reliable performance with a system of bus wires and feeders to power your track. I really like it, particularly the ability to run locomotives independently.
It was accessible from all sides, but the rule of thumb about a 30 inch reach from the edge is a good one, even stretching it a bit.Ī lot of modelers run DCC now. Have you looked at other options, like a narrower around-the-walls layout? My original section was a 5x12 foot rectangular table.
I don't see any need for sectional track. I think it looks better and trains stay on the track just as well.
Railmodeller pro create grade to track code#
I also built the first section of my layout with Code 100 track, but later sections are all Code 83. It tarnishes easily and needs more frequent and more agressive cleaning. I made mistakes, so I will tell you about some of them.įirst, the track. I had everything in boxes and carried it with me for all that time. I also took a 40 year vacation from model railroading.
Railmodeller pro create grade to track how to#
How does that sound?Īny thoughts or advice on how to start? It seems a bit overwhelming.Ī few questions first: Are you starting from scratch, or do you have stuff you've already bought? How wide do plan your curves to be? Will your layout be a rectangle, or irregularly shaped? It looks to me that there are many pitfalls I could fall into if the direction of the track goes askew or if track doesn't line up etc.įor example - it seems to me that I should start at a point with fixed track like the 9" straight pieces and then use the flex track when I get to it as my sort of wiggle room to make sure everything fits together. Here is the question/ advice please- I am in need of a peptalk on how to start to lay the track and cork properly. I created a scale layout on the computer using Railmodeller Pro that I am going to follow and am about to start laying track. I am using 1" - 2" foamboard for the base on 1/2" plywood and am planning on laying 100 code track on cork. This is where I am at - I just finished my bench work - it is an 18' long by around 6' wide dog bone shaped layout. Here goes - you can put me in the camp of people who were interested in model trains at an early age and then after a 40 year hiatus are re-aquainting themselves with the hobby (HO scale).
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